Kuba: Potápění a cestování v karibském ráji se svérázným přístupem k životu

V životě jsme neviděli tak bohaté korálové zahrady, neprožili tak autentické zážitky a nevypili tolik rumu jako na Kubě. Ostrovní stát v Karibiku si udržuje komunistický režim, ale turisté jsou tu opatrně vítáni. Potápění je tu jedno velké dobrodružství, svět pod vodou vás za něj bohatě odmění. 

Pro spoustu turistů začíná dovolená v Havaně a pro mnohé tam i končí. My jsme svou výpravu pojali víc zeširoka a procestovali pořádný kus země, která nabízí překrásnou nedotčenou přírodu, milé lidi a spoustu zajímavých témat k hovoru. 

Havana vás ohromí, pohltí a rychle unaví

Kubu si většina lidí představí jako místo pro nekončící párty a přesně takové je její hlavní město. Ubytovali jsme se v centru s výhledem přímo na nasvícený El Capitol a ještě před první sprchou jsme stihli první drink a živé hudební vystoupení v baru za rohem. 

Během dvou dní jsme pěšky prochodili snad všechny uličky v Havaně, spoustu míst z tištěného průvodce jsme nenašli a náhodou jsme narazili na kupu krásných zákoutí jako Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, náměstíčko ideální jako výchozí bod pro objevování celého města. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Byli jsme se podívat i u slavného baru La Bodeguita Del Medio, kam rád chodil Hemingway, ale jestli je v Havaně jedno opravdu turistické místo, pak je to tady a ztrácí díky tomu na atmosféře. Ve druhém spisovatelově doupěti, baru Floridita jsme si dali jeho oblíbené Daiquiri bez cukru a řekli si, že “povinné” zastávky máme splněné. 

Foto: Adam Svancar

Výlet k soše Krista, kam se dá dostat přívozem nebo taxíkem určitě stojí za ten výhled, do muzea historie a vojenské techniky je zbytečné platit vstupné, kolem celé venkovní části se dá projít a nízký plůtek výhledu na letadla, tanky a další techniku ani trochu nebrání. Naopak v Museo del Ron Havana Club jsme si zvolili dražší vstupné s rozšířenou ochutnávkou na konci prohlídky a dostalo se nám královské péče. 

Historická Havana je intenzivní, divoká, barevná a zároveň maličká v porovnání s evropskými metropolemi, které jen velmi těžko projdete pěšky křížem krážem. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Viñales, tabáková farma a místní pojetí turistických služeb

Plánování výletu na Kubu bylo docela oříšek kvůli nedostatku informací a protichůdným tvrzením napříč dostupnými zdroji. Chtěli jsme cestovat po vlastní ose a v Havaně se nám to vyplatilo. Ale přece jen jsme se rozhodli pro jeden organizovaný výlet s místním průvodcem, abychom se trochu zorientovali a získali tipy na přežití než se vypravíme na vlastní pěst dál. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Byla to chyba. Výlet do údolí Viñales zařízený přes Airbnb se proměnil v pekelnou čtyřhodinovou cestu rozhrkaným minibusem do jeskyně frekventovanější než Macocha a s zastávkou u moderně pomalované skály s prehistorickými motivy. Součástí výletu byla i návštěva tabákové farmy, kde jsme se podívali na demonstraci balení doutníku a dostali výbornou kávu. Tam to bylo fajn. Závěrečná vyjížďka na koních měla co do sebe, ale na nás byla opět až moc turistická. 

Výlet to byl dlouhý a celkově tak nějak v pořádku, ale nedozvěděli jsme se toho mnoho a utratili dost. Takže dál už opravdu jen sami. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Překrásný národní park Las Terrazas

V Havaně jsme si půjčili auto a vyrazili směrem na západ do přírodní rezervace Las Terrazas. Neskutečně levný luxusní hotel s vanou s výhledem do džungle byl ideální výchozí bod pro výlety. Abychom viděli všechno zajímavé, vyjížděli jsme autem, i když pro milovníky výhradně pěší turistiky to ale musí být ráj. 

Las Terrazas jsou bezpečnou variantou divoké džungle, kterou můžete bez problémů objevovat sami. Narazili jsme na spoustu překrásných ptáků, rostlin, vyhlídek a nezapomenutelná jsou jezírka Baños, ve kterých se dá i koupat. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Krokodýlí farma a potápění v zátoce Sviní a v cenotách

Dalším cílem naší výpravy byla zátoka Sviní na jihu ostrova. Cestou jsme navštívili krokodýlí farmu, nebo vlastně dvě. Nejprve trochu omylem autentickou farmu a pak jsme se ještě větším omylem a díky kamarádově španělštině dostali zadarmo do turistické krokodýlí farmy naproti. V té první jsme pozorovali krokodýli zavřené bezpečně za plotem a málem šlápli na jednoho volně se slunícího u cesty. V té druhé jsme viděli krmení krokodýlů a zvuk sklapnutých čelistí už asi nezapomeneme. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Hlavním cílem této části výpravy byla ale zátoka Sviní. Místní pojetí historie je pro nás svérázné a tady sálá asi nejintenzivněji. My jsme sem zamířili ale hlavně kvůli potápění. 

Potápěčská centra na Kubě pojímají turistickou péči po svém a chce to trochu důrazu při vysvětlování vašich představ, nakonec jsme ale dostali skvělého guida Tonyho a viděli nádherné korálové zahrady, hejna drzých ryb, obrovské kraby a langusty i vráček lodi. Na povrchové intervaly se tu nehraje, nám se povedlo usmlouvat mezi dvěma 60 minutovými ponory aspoň půl hodinu pauzu, ale stálo to zato.

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Na druhý potápěčský den jsme Tonyho ukecali k ponorům v cenotách a z něho se vyklubal podle všeho jeden z nejlepších jeskyňářských instruktorů na celé Kubě, který nás nadšeně vzal doprostřed pralesa do dvou menších jeskyněk. Kubánské cenoty nejsou tak velkolepé jako ty známější mexické, nebo možná jsou, ale nikdo je ještě pořádně neprozkoumal. Pro nás to ale byly životní ponory. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Průmyslový Matanzas a jiná Kuba ve Varaderu

Ze zátoky Sviní jsme se záměrně vypravili vnitrozemím směrem na sever, abychom viděli i odvrácenou tvář Kuby. V nekonečných polích cukrové třtiny, mezi chudými vesničkami a obrovskými ubytovacími komplexy pro dělníky uprostřed ničeho nás trochu zamrazilo. Kulturní šok jsme završili ve vyloženě ošklivém přístavním městě Matanzas a asi poprvé viděli, jak žije velká většina Kubánců. Do smíchu nám nebylo. 

S nemalým pocitem provinilosti a pokrytectví jsme pokračovali do nejznámějšího turistického ráje na Kubě, na poloostrov Varadero. Sem jezdí všichni ti bohatí kanadští, evropští, ale i američtí turisti, leží na pláži, popíjejí drinky a pak vyprávějí o své dovolené na Kubě. A my jsme se k nim s chutí přidali. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Kde jinde si dopřát luxusní all-inclusive hotel než na Kubě. A tak jsme se přejídali, přepíjeli, hráli tenis, volejbal v bazénu a leželi na dokonalých plážích. Ovšem s pocitem, že jsme předtím viděli aspoň maličký kousek skutečné Kuby. A celý ten mix zážitků, chutí a zkušeností bych přála každému dobrodružnému cestovateli. 

Foto: Adéla Beranová

Pár praktických tipů 

  • Bezpečnost: Za celou dobu jsme nezažili jedinou situaci, kdy bychom se cítili v nebezpečí nebo ohrožení. Nedodržovali jsme žádná zvláštní bezpečnostní opatření. Neokradli nás, nekontrolovali nás, neobtěžovali nás. Občas nás zkusili natáhnout při placení, ale kde to na turisty nezkouší. 
  • Peníze a placení: Na Kubě nefungují žádné naše platební karty, a to ani na letišti. Je potřeba si dovézt hotovost a tu na místě směnit. Přímo na letišti jsou směnárny, my si vyměnili peníze na celé dva týdny přímo u taxikáře a dostali ještě lepší kurz, ale to už chce odvahu. Jako turisti dostanete takzvané Convertibles – CUC. Platit se s nimi dá bez problémů úplně všude.
  • Jidlo a pití: Jestli nás něco překvapilo, tak hodně špatné jídlo a jeho nedostatek. Nikde na Kubě si nezajdete jen tak do potravin a nenakoupíte si jídlo, pití ani nic moc dalšího. Jste odkázáni na restaurace, street food a kubánci kulinářským uměním prostě nevynikají. Nikdy jsme neměli opravdu hlad, jídlo seženete téměř kdekoliv, ale pochutnali jsme si zhruba dvakrát. Balená voda se dá vždycky nějak koupit, my jsme nakonec pili i vodu z kohoutku a přežili jsme všichni. Asi díky tomu, že rumu je v koktejlech víc než nealkoholické složky, takže se člověk pravidelně desinfikuje. 
  • Doprava a půjčení auta: Po Havaně jsme chodili pěšky a asi dvakrát jeli taxíkem, které tu jsou za rozumné peníze a hlavně v podobě starých velkých amerických kár, takže už pro ten zážitek se s nimi chcete svézt. Na cestu po ostrově jsme si půjčili auto ve státní půjčovně na letišti a bylo dost drahé a dost malé. Ale dalo nám svobodu si jezdit po vlastní ose a zastavit kdekoli se nám to líbilo. Potkali jsme se i s turisty, kteří projeli ostrov s taxíky a nějak jsme měli pocit, že toho neviděli a nezažili zdaleka tolik, co my. Samozřejmě je to ale pohodlnější a možná trochu bezpečnější varianta pro méně zkušené cestovatele. Cenově to vyjde zhruba stejně. 

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